Sunday 27 December 2015

Hsipaw and first steps through Shan hills

Day 40 - 27/12/2015
Chokdee guest house - Chiang Mai, Thailand

Trying to deal with the writing debt of last 2 weeks and to cover the rest of our Burmese story brings me back here to share some of our moments.

After leaving Mandalay on fully loaded pick-up we've stopped for two nights in Pyin Oo Lwin where Tati got little bit down with common cold and we didn't do much except getting up to speed with latest news, planning move to Thailand and reading little bit about our trekking options in Hsipaw.

Six to eight people inside plus 2 more outside
Overloading => Overheating
At the end of second day Anton reappeared and next morning we set off to catch six hours train to Hsipaw. But you can't go anywhere without proper breakfast in this country so guess what, Mohinga rules !!!

Oh my lovely Mohinga !
Train in Myanmar was very advanced way of transportation during British rule, but that was the last time since someone invested any money or effort to the rail track maintenance. It's very correct to say that for less than 1 Eur you're purchasing non-stop six hours roller coaster ride :) Forget fun fairs, this is real thing. Sri Lanka trains are bad, but Myanmar trains are far worse.

Simple train timetable 
Early into the roller coaster journey
Not as much on the carriage side as on the state of rails. There are moments when you find yourself launched of the wooden seat in rhythmic beat accompanied by 40 degree sway of the carriage :) Watching carriage ahead or behind you through connecting door makes you feel like in a real fun machine !

You can opt for "Upper class" carriage which would segregate you from the most beautiful experience ! Local people heading same direction :)

Some families bring whole buckets full of food for the ride
We're all curious
Except incredible scenery of Shan hills there is a major tourist attraction half way through - Goteik Viaduct - when finished in 1900 considered the largest railway viaduct in the world.

Approaching Goteik viaduct
Better views are from left side of the train when heading to Hsipaw
It's still in use and the views across the gorge with running stream and below are breath taking.

High above the gorge
We've reached Hsipaw with tiny delay and as Anton had a friend (Anna) already waiting there, we got very conveniently picked up by guest house where she booked us a room. We've topped up the back of the van with more white faces sharing same journey and looking for decent room, some of them we met earlier on our path ( Maya and her friend was on KLIA to Yangon flight ) and Hadleigh who we met in Pyin Oo Lwin night before.

Closer to Hsipaw 
Another rice harvest has just finished
Yee Shin guest house is quiet, family run place on the main road in Hsipaw, providing basic and clean rooms for unbeatable price for that quality in the town. Staff is very friendly and if you need bicycle, motorbike or mountain guide you can find it all there.

As it happens when you travel, now and then you meet same faces. So it wasn't huge surprise when Catalunian group (and one girl from Menorca) which we met some days ago in Mrauk U appeared same night in the guest house :)

Mira, Dutch girl which we met earlier on the boat from Sittwe to Mrauk U was also in the town and we jumped into each other paths right during our first walk through Hsipaw.

Next morning we set off  to explore surroundings !

Hsipaw is quite small town and you can cover all of the main sights on a bicycle. In a group of 6 we started north of the town by old teak monasteries in the area of little Bagan.

Old teak monastery hiding bamboo Buddha image
Rich lunch for wide Sangha community
All the food has been brought in
Sangha member slowly proceeding to eat lunch
Some of the forgotten pagodas in banana plantation
Next to follow was coffee in Mrs PopCorn garden (chilled garden cafe where you can find plenty of fruits and spices growing around and above you but no popcorn any more ;).

Green pepper
Main mission for the day was a visit of nearby waterfall, and as it's usual with no expectations you get the best experience. While crossing rice paddies we've spotted it in far distance and it definitely didn't look small !

Cycling through rice paddies
After crossing Buddhist and Chinese cemeteries, burning landfill and vast corn and banana plantations we've reached the bottom of the fall with amazing deep swimming pool !

Chinese cemetery 
Dark side of Hsipaw - burning landfill 
There was no way to resist the call of the refreshing cold water and all male members jumped in !
Lush green jungle is surrounding Hsipaw waterfall
Strong shoulder massage !
Chilling in the cool of the pool
By the end of the day we visited Shan palace where we've learned about the tragic story of last Shan prince. Political and regional topics were brought forward in deep discussion and the conversation lasted long after dusk.

Travellers meetup in Mr. Shake's office
Next morning we packed our bags and left for three days trek through Paulang villages sitting high above the town.

Simple map of our 3 days trekk
Before we get to the memories of the trek I have to highlight figure of Mr. Book, who provided us with the hand drawn map of the whole circuit as well as shared his strong political opinions about latest events in Myanmar.

Scenery varied from rice paddies through corn fields all the way to tea plantations on the highest slopes.

Getting lost in the rice paddy again
Harvest in full swing
With couple of detours it took as solid 7 hours to reach first village called Phan Kham (1165 m) where we stayed overnight in simple home stay with father and his son who spoke little bit of English and took us for little tour through the village.

One of the detours to find the top of the waterfall 
To find it one has to use all of his skills
Thanaka is traditional from early age - works as sun cream and make up in one 
Buffalo soldier ! 
High above corn fields
Rocky ridge line in the background 
FInally in Phan Kham !
We ate incredible vegetarian dinner followed by even better breakfast.

Locals were really happy to see us :)
Sunset over Shan hills from Phan Kham
Delicious pumpkin, potatoes, rice, tea leaves salad and veg. soup
Simple cooking conditions
We've organised recycling revolution and gave a lesson on how to separate waste in order to keep the village plastic free ! With the help of local spirits it might work !

Hopefully the word "recycling" will spread further !
Around 10 AM we left Phan Kham and started our hike towards Than Sant (1360 m) which we reached within hour and half. Most of the trek is done on wide dirt road so hiring local guide might be beneficial only if you want to get few short cuts and possibly different way down the hill.

On the main road in Than Sant - drying tea as far as you can see
Local lady explaining us which way to go :)
After reaching Than Sant we've decided to take the day easy, got a coffee and dropped the bags to lighten our backs for onward circuit.

Following the right path on the fork below the school we walked through jungle valley and hiked through tea plantations to next village - Phan Ka (1490 m). Being highest of all Paulang villages in this area Phan Ka, pinned on top of the hill, provides incredible views all around.

Wild tea plantation below Phan Ka
Kids were the main topic for the whole duration of our visit and we had countless high fives and hand shakes with local youth :)

Real friendship still exists 
And it doesn't matter how old are you at all ! 
Pink is in even in Phan Ka !
Main ridge dirt road got us back to Htan Sant where we helped villagers with their daily chores - picking higher quality tea leaves from the vast amount of drying tea on the grounds and finally packing the tea into bags before the moist night arrives.

Phan Ka viewed from pagoda above the village
Roots I 
Roots II
Greenest leaves are picked out of darker ones, higher value on the market
Load it all into the bag before it gets wet from night moisture
Before sunset Catalunian group arrived and joined our home stay crew for the dinner and following fire circle. It was chilly night with half moon shining as much as it can when there is no pollution around !

Lot of travel stories were shared, some beers were drunk and lot of locals came to sit down with us for few minutes to warm up around little hard wood fire.

Keep the fire burning !
Language barrier disappears as soon as you have Point It dictionary in your pocket :)

Next morning, right after Backgammon competition we departed on the last bit of our trek.

Winning is just opposite face of loosing, learn to loose and you will know how to win :) 
Taking left on the fork below the school we walked firstly through tea plantations to enter thick jungle trail leading us in hour and half to Oh Mu village.

Hidden paddy in the jungle valley
Onward journey was following tarmac road for more than 3 hours and even though it was all slightly downhill, it was probably the most strenuous and tiring part of the whole trek.

Hurry up with that black tar boy, there is 10 kilos of rocks waiting on my head !
If you're lucky you can hitch a ride on the back of some vehicle. We got our portion of luck almost all the way down ! Still many thanks to boys bringing down the woods from the forest for giving us 10 min ride :)

Tati enjoying company on the privileged seat in front 
While we're laying on the sticks !
Upon reaching the main road it's well easy to hitch ride back to Hsipaw :)

Shan ladies in full shine costume
Riding back to Hsipaw on top of few tons of corn
Safe back at Yee Shin guest house
Next day was in the name of Big Chill, I've came down with sore throat which over the course of next days developed to Strep infection with high fever where Paracatemol didn't help.

1.5 g of Azythromycin spread over 5 days did !

Anton and Anna left following day both different directions - we might see them again somewhere else on this planet !

We've left Hsipaw 2 days later and went for hitch hike on the main road. It took us less than 5 minutes to sneak into a ride to Kyakme.

But what came next was million times better than private taxi :)

Toyota Hilux ride via Pyin Oo Lwin artifact shop, directly to Garden Hotel in Mandalay.

4 hours in comfy seats ! Half way through we spotted Hadleigh on the back of pick up and managed to transfer him into our comfy car - What a luck !

Ahh no luck, it's called Karma :)

Weng (the driver), you're the man ! Che zu tem ba de !!

We've checked into double room with TV and ensuite bathroom where I've stayed in bed half asleep, half in agony, sweating my balls off while fighting old enemy Streptococcus.

By the time our flight to Bangkok was due to depart, I had just mild fever ( less than 38 C ) and fit again to travel !

How good it feels when your body doesn't scream with pain anymore !

Goodbye Myanmar people !!

It was a pleasure to meet all your smiling faces and we'll definitely be back one day to see and feel more of your beautiful country.

Tar-Tar !!